Dani, Mario, Pauline mountaineering, Simo, Lele 
point is that it becomes difficult to follow some sort of "report" on a succession of shots. 
Why "acciaiamo"
The lack of stamina and strength in most cases it is not the main cause of the fact that soon you run out of energy. The fact that there "acciaiamo" is often merely an effect due to the misuse of physical, overdose of force, and the lack of appropriate feedback control of muscle tension.
Our body is full of sensors that tell us a lot of information coming from the inside: muscle tension, the feeling of discomfort or pain in the muscles and tendons inside are continuously monitored, individually, and in most cases unwittingly, by all these receptors. For most of us, especially for those who get tired quickly when climbing, they think they have little resistance and actually wasted too, until the last muscle to contract even when not in use, these receptors are poorly "tuned."
This means you do not arrive, independently and automatically, the signal that we are tightening the grip too much and that we can give a little '; does not come from those sensors, the signal that we can relax the back and neck, you can relax a little calf, and when we took hold immediately after the signal often does not arrive we can relax the other hand. The task of these proprioceptors, if they are well calibrated, should be to allow the muscles to agonists have the minimum voltage required to move and antagonists have the maximum possible relaxation. In other words tighten taken as little as possible, only the muscles that are contracting, alternate in a synergistic and efficient contraction and de-contraction of agonists and antagonists, to succeed, sometimes even to rest some muscle without having to let go. Often is not only a problem of muscle tension sensors, is also a problem of technique: this is the case, for example, when we are downloading a lot of weight on the legs and feet, but we continue to tighten the inordinately we took on our hands. We try to do this experiment every now and then, acting under the voluntary control: while we are climbing loosen the grip more and more to the point where if you give up a little 'hand opens and helmets. What is the limit and as hard as we put more energy is wasted. The problem is that, as often happens, the conscious and voluntary control is totally inadequate to the task: too slow and expensive, ineffective and inefficient as a old computer crashed. Do you think that the proprioceptive feedback requires only 100 milliseconds to give rise to a response of corrections when they are automatic and do not reach the state of consciousness.
Climbing with excessive tension, sovradosata than would actually serve to go up, is typical of those who are afraid of falling, of those who are inhibited by other forms of anxiety such as the presence of the public, performance anxiety, the 'anxiety of needing to succeed, the degree of anxiety .. etc.
E 'but also a learning problem: who began as a child will certainly have the proprioceptors adjusted very well and always able to well coordinate the effort among the various muscle most effectively. Who started with the outdoor climbing is definitely an advantage over those who are accustomed to putting salt in the boulders. Surely even those who started late in the dry strength training will be able to make better use of the force at his disposal. It 'a fact that the development of salt boulders and training and strength have helped in disaster to fill the cliffs of climbers who use their physical potential bad (those who know me know that myself, all my students , I often say that the climb out is the best training, but despite this I certainly have a great responsibility in having caused this invasion of barbarians thirsting for instance). This problem becomes less important when using only the Bouldering: if you have to pass a crash problem, the explosion of power takes a few seconds and it is often more important to be able to develop a maximum voltage rather than saving, in the case of rock climbing and climbing routes to more shots but is essential an appropriate mix of muscular tension in order to last longer. Possible solutions
For starters
Approach the climb with a course that takes place primarily outdoors, have the imprint of climbing on the rock true, rather than starting to climb out only after months of climbing wall and strength training. The indoor gym and strength training are only useful when it has already reached a good technical level, otherwise they are counterproductive. The fact that many gyms have a short time after reaching significant levels (including the 7a/7b) means only that their physical level is disproportionate to the technical, which have forged ahead and make a lot more difficult then to recover this gap and can make a next step forward.
If you can not just go for a climb out, avoid, at least for the first year, and excessive non-specific strength training Cleaning, trying to climb as possible, to develop sensitivity in the feet using only very small support for the feet and to automate more possible motor patterns
When you scale out, do not try to forge ahead through a lot of time groped their way over the limit, but many do easy routes and fluidity when he climbs to the limit evil, and if you climb to the limit you get used to climb evil. Search
beginning to solve all those factors that inhibit the proper functioning of the automatic functions: the fear of flying, lack of self-esteem, a tendency to be too competitive with themselves or with others, the anxiety of performance ol ' degree of anxiety, the set objectives wrong (trivial or unattainable). All this after a bit 'of years will be so entrenched that it will become much more difficult to eradicate.
For a long time climber
be objective with yourself: when you can not always come up with excuses which then ends up believing. This will actually be able to act on their weaknesses
Learning to see and mentally represent the climb, not so much not only to remember the sequence of holds but also to better determine the feelings of how and when to push and pull. The best way to "calibrate" the receptors inside is just to do it mentally as if you were to revise a lesson.
Climbing out as much as possible, even on easy. Do a lot of long routes in the mountains is one of the best ways to build a base of motor patterns that will last a lifetime. Remember that the best way to train is to climb out, Pan Gullich and beam are essential to the highest level (with many exceptions), but for all the others are only a surrogate for those who have the ability to scale.
imitation and repetition, to climb with who is better and then try again indulging without rationalize too much, as when following a ski instructor who does not speak after a while and 'feel my legs that go on their own.
Search to be versatile in the first part of his career, specializing in the second. In fact, beginning to do some 'all (boulders, continuity, biditi, reeds, flares, exposed, processed, etc.) needed to build a store, costs pennies to pay sooner or later. After years of climbing, and in a later period, however, the versatility can be counterproductive in terms of physical, continuity will be at the expense of strength and vice versa, and you run the risk of not doing so well neither of these. From the mental point of view, climb up things that are not congenial often lead to demotivation. A good solution is therefore to train above all things that are already good, to become increasingly strong favorite over things. In this way the results will continue to grow, and this will affect in a positive way so that you will get better even on the land on which once had the weakest.
... Go in the car was for him a sleeping pill. Often spent half asleep on the seat Passenger our long trips ...
... Climbing the enthusiastic to the point of urging him to give up, overnight, to play tennis ... He left as soon as the circle of petty bourgeois wish-fulfilling and dived between the rocks ...
